Aeon Trespass: Odyssey (ATO) by Lawnor

Cloudsoarer

She is built from the Midascore and has been painted with the same recipes where appropriate.  The following recipes where used where needed.

Flesh

Base: P3 Midlund Flesh
Wash: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Skorne Red
Wash: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Battledress Green
Wash deep areas only with P3 Battledress Green mixed with P3 Skorne Red
Drybrush: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Ryn Flesh

Hair

Base: Reaper MSP 09148 Ghoul Skin mixed with Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Wash: Reaper MSP 09148 Ghoul Skin
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin mixed with White
Drybrush: White to just the tips

Camel

Base: P3 Rucksack Tan
Wash: p3 Gun Corps Brown
Deep Area Wash: P3 Battlefield Brown
Drybrush: P3 Rucksack Tan mixed with P3 Menoth White Base
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base

Leather

Base: VMA 71.040 Burnt Umber
Drybrush: Ammo A.Mig-0620 Dark Sand
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade

Gold Trim

Base: P3 Rhulic Gold
Wash: GW Seraphim Sepia
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold mixed with P3 Radiant Platinum

Gold Lantern Thing

Base: GW Retrubutor Gold
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: VMA 71.066 Gold
Highlight: VMA 71.066 Gold mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome

Chains

Base: VMC 77.712 Steel
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: VMC 77.712 Steel mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome
Highlight: VMC 77.707 Chrome

Immortal Truthbearer

They clearly just mirrored the STL of the regular Truthbearer, broke his chain, and gave him armour.  Don’t really blame them on saving effort, but still…

Flesh

Base: P3 Midlund Flesh
Wash: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Skorne Red
Wash: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Battledress Green
Wash deep areas only with P3 Battledress Green mixed with P3 Skorne Red
Drybrush: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Ryn Flesh

His One Massive Ball

Base: P3 Trollblood Highlight
Heavy Drybrush: GW Karak Stone
Medium Drybrush: GW Screaming Skull
Light Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Highlight
Vallejo Pigment 73.111 Green Earth was brushed on straight from the pot (No moisture involved) with an old drybrush moments before Varnishing.  It mixes with the varnish and runs in to the recesses and seals behind itself, giving age, dirt, and depth to the stone.

Black Hands and Mask

Why are his hands black?  I don’t know.  They appear that way in the art, but perhaps that’s just excessive shading?  Maybe I’ll get an explanation when I unlock this guy.  Maybe not.  Maybe the artists just like desaturating everything too much.  Applying an art style is all well and good, but it has it’s problems when it’s out only means of identifying what we’re looking at and it’s misleading.

Base: Revel Aqua Color 36.106 Tar Black
Drybrush: Revel Aqua Color 36.174 mixed with Revel Aqua Color 36.106 Tar Black
Drybrush: Revel Aqua Color 36.174
Drybrush: Revel Aqua Color 36.174 mixed with Reaper MSP 09024 Amethyst Purple

Green Cloth

Base: P3 Traitor Green
Wash: GW Athonian Camoshade
Drybrush: Ammo A.MIG-0606 Medium Green

Gold

Base: GW Retributor Gold
Wash: GW Seraphim Sepia
Highlight: P3 Soild Gold
Highlight: Darkstar Pale Gold

Red Eyes

Undercoat: Darkstar Pale Gold
Ammo Mig A.MIG-093 Crystal Red Paint

Lunarlander

The Lunarlander is built from the Babelian Lunacy, so his tentacles and gold armour use the same recipes as that model did.

Iron

Base: P3 Pig Iron
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: P3 Cold Steel
Highlight: P3 Cold Steel mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome
Highlight: VMC 77.707 Chrome

“Face”

Undercoat: Thin down some P3 Menoth White Base and let it run in to the spiral and dry
Glow: Base with some Coat d’arms 168 Ink Wash Yellow.  Before it dries, dab in some spots of Coat d’arms 159 Golden Yellow wherever you want

Shadowdancer

Shadowdancer is build from the Dahaka, so I have panited her skirts the same way I painted that.

Flesh

Base: P3 Midlund Flesh
Wash: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Skorne Red
Wash: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Battledress Green
Wash deep areas only with P3 Battledress Green mixed with P3 Skorne Red
Drybrush: P3 Midlund Flesh mixed with P3 Ryn Flesh

Iron Blades

Base: P3 Pig Iron
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: P3 Cold Steel
Highlight: P3 Cold Steel mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome
Highlight: VMC 77.707 Chrome

Hair

Undercoat: Army painter Fanatic Matt White
Base Reaper MSP 09256 Blond Shadow
Wash: Thinned Coat d’arms 113 Ink Wash Flesh
Wash: Coat d’arms 113 Ink Wash Flesh in to the deeper areas only
Drybrush Reaper MSP 09257 Blond Hair
Drybrush Reaper MSP 09258 Blond Highlight

Feather

Base: Reaper MSP 09148 Ghoul Skin mixed with Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Wash: Reaper MSP 09148 Ghoul Skin
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin mixed with White
Drybrush: White to just the highest points

Leather

Base: VMA 71.040 Burnt Umber
Drybrush: Ammo A.Mig-0620 Dark Sand
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade

Gold Fabric

Base: P3 Rhulic Gold
Wash: GW Seraphim Sepia
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold mixed with P3 Radiant Platinum

Gold Metals

Base: GW Retrubutor Gold
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: VMA 71.066 Gold
Highlight: VMA 71.066 Gold mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome

Steel Mask

Base: VMC 77.712 Steel
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: VMC 77.712 Steel mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome
Highlight: VMC 77.707 Chrome

Wishender

The Wishender is made from the Demidjinn.  His gold and black flesh are painted the same as with that model.

Iron Blades

Base: P3 Pig Iron
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: P3 Cold Steel
Highlight: P3 Cold Steel mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome
Highlight: VMC 77.707 Chrome

Chainmail & Machine Parts

Base: P3 Pir Iron
Wash: GW Nuln Oil or GW Agrax Earthshade for different effects on different areas
Highlight: P3 Quicksilver
Highlight: P3 Quicksilver mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome
Highlight: VMC 77.707 Chrome

Blue Trousers

I don’t like the Hataka paints I have.  They go on heavy and vibrant, overpowering whats underneath, but then they usually seem to vanish, even after a lot of coats.  Every now and then I try them again because I do like the colours.  I had mixed success here, but I think the P3 paint did most of the work

Base over black: Hataka A001 Dark Sea Blue, leaving the recesses black.  This is almost the first highlight.  Actually worked.  I was happy.
Highlight: Hataka A711 Dark Blue.  Seemed to do very little at best
Highlight: Hataka A083 Gris Bleu Clair.  Seemed to do very little at best
Highlight: I added some Cygnar Blue base to each of the above and tried again and got results
Wash: GW Nuln Oil in to the recesses.  Can apply all over if it’s gone too bright or you want to smooth it over a bit

Black-Grey Loin Cloth

Base: P3 Greatcoat grey
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base
Wash: GW Nuln Oil.  2nd coat if you want it darker

Red Holsters / Machine Shell thingies???

Base: Army Painter Mars Red mixed with P3 Bloodtracker Brown
Wash: GW Carroburg Crimson
Highlight: AP Mars Red
Highlight P3 Khador Red Base

Leather

Base: VMA 71.040 Burnt Umber
Drybrush: Ammo A.Mig-0620 Dark Sand
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade

Hair

Feather

Base: Reaper MSP 09148 Ghoul Skin mixed with Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Wash: Reaper MSP 09148 Ghoul Skin
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin mixed with P3 Sickly Skin
Drybrush: P3 Sickly Skin

Other Gold Details

Base: GW Retrubutor Gold
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: VMA 71.066 Gold
Highlight: VMA 71.066 Gold mixed with VMC 77.707 Chrome

Arrow Shafts

Base: P3 Hammerfal Khaki
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade

Arrow Flights

Base: P3 Ironhull Grey
Drybrush: P3 Underbelly Blue
Wash: GW Nuln Oil

Cirrotrireme

Some sort of flying, balloon powered boat platform thing?

Wood

Base: P3 Battlefield Brown
Drybrush: GW Karak Stone
Drybrush: P3 Jack Bone
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: P3 Jack Bone
(This recipe usually has a Wash of GW Agrax Earthshade here, but I skipped it this time)
Wash: GW Seraphim Sepia

Iron

Base: P3 Pig iron
Wash: Jan’s Magimix, around just the base of the horn (6-8 Parts GW Nuln Oil, 6-8 Parts GW Agrax Earthshade, 5-6 Parts Lahmium Medium, 2 parts Athonian Camoshade. Thanks, Januinevision)
Drybrush: P3 Cold Steel

Green Balloons

Base: P3 Gnarls Green
Wash: GW Coelia Greenshade
Drybrush VMC 70.967 Olive Green

Rope

Base: VMC 70.884 Stone Grey
Wash: Handcraft Tabletop Terrain Wash 267.01 Dunkelschatten
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base

Clouds

Base: P3 Underbelly Blue mixed with White
Wash: P3 Underbelly Blue
Highlight: P3 Underbelly Blue mixed with White
Highlight: Last step with more white
Highlight: Last step with more white
Highlight: Last step with more white
Highlight: Last step with more white
etc until happy.

Bronze

Base:  P3 Deathless metal
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: P3 Rhulic Gold
Drybrush: P3  Solid Gold

The Babelian Lunacy

Remember to test fit all the modular plugs first.  Chances are you’ll need to shave some down so they fit easier.  Remember, paint will make the plugs thicker, so shave off a little more than you need to avoid problems later.

Stone Tower

This is also the recipe I have started using for buildings on the bases

Base: VMC 70.981 Orange Brown
Airbrush Zenithal & Side on spray: VMC 70.819 Iraqui Sand
Drybrush: VMC 70.819 Iraqui Sand mixed with Italeri FS36622 Flat Gull Grey
Drybrush: Italeri FS36622 Flat Gull Grey
Drybrush: Italeri FS36622 Flat Gull Grey Mixed with White
Drybrush: White on just the sharpest edges

Tendrils

Base: VMC 70.994 Dark Grey
Drybrush: P3 Sulphur Yellow

I was going for black whit a hint of yellow, but it ended up green and I just went with it.  At this stage it looked a little like a dark, desaturated spectral ghostly green.  Might be worth a revisit later should I ever want that effect.

Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Drybrush: P3 Mouldy Ochre
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Highlight
Drybrush: P3 Mouldy Ochre over the P3 Menoth White Highlight

Eye

Base: P3 Deathless Metal
Wash: GW Nuln oil towards the back.  Do this while washing the tendrils if you can.
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade everywhere else.  Do this while the Nuln oil is still went and blend them together
Circular Drybrush: P3 Deathless Metal over the front portion, retaining a ring of the Agrax behind it
Circular Drybrush: P3 Molten Bronze, retaining a ring of Deathless Metal around it
Circular Drybrush: P3 Rhulic Gold, leaving a ring around it
Circular Drybrush: P3 Solid Gold, leaving a ring around it
Circular Drybrush: Darkstar Pale Gold, leaving a ring around it
Drybrush: Darkstar Pale Gold mixed with Vallejo metal Colour 77.707 Chrome over the bumpy bits

Black Gloopy Bits

Paint the same as the Dahaka, when you paint him

Midascore

Airbrush the wings and then the body before you do any further work, to avoid messing anything up when its harder to fix it.

Wings & Underbelly

Base: Airbrush Reaper MSP 09302 NMM Gold Base.  Don’t go for a solid layer.  Let the black show through in the shadowed areas.
Pin wash around the bumps, along the edges, and in the crack and holes with P3 Umbral Umber
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09303 NMM Gold Highlight
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09303 NMM Gold Highlight mixed with white

Body

Base: Airbrush what you can safely, then hairy brush, using Reaper MSP 09301 NMM Gold Shadow
Wash: Army painter Strong Tone
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09301 NMM Gold Shadow mixed with Reaper MSP 09302 NMM Gold Base
Drybrush: Reaper MSP 09302 NMM Gold Base on selected higher areas

Armour Plates and Claws

Base: P3 Deathless metal
Wash: Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: P3 Rhulic Gold
Drybrush: P3 Rhulic Gold mixed with Vallejo Metal Colour 77.707 Chrome
Edge Highlight: P3 Rhulic Gold mixed with Vallejo Metal Colour 77.707 Chrome

Hair

Base: Reaper MSP 09256 Blond Shadow
Wash: Coat d’arms 133 Ink Wash Flesh
Drybrush: Reaper MSP  09257 Blond hair
Drybrush: Reaper MSP  09258 Blond Highlight

Mouth
Wash: GW Carroburg Crimson
Base teeth: P3 Menoth White Base
Highlight teeth and base eyes: P3 Menoth White Highlight
Pupils: Back

Horns
Base: MRP-F059 Brown-Grey
Drybrush: MRP-F060 Dust Grey, avoiding the base of each horn
Drybrush: MRP-F063 Bone White, leaving more of the horns untouched
Drybrush: White on just the tips
Wash: MRP-F059 Brown-Grey mixed with a little black, applied only around the base of each horn, and perhaps stretched up in to some of the deeper recesses a little

Do the airbrush layers for the Dahaka and the Demidjinn at the same time.  Both were primes black and given no zenithal preshade.

Dahaka & His Map Mini-Me

Base: Airbrush Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black side on and above only.
Highlight: Airbush Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black mixed with Revell Aqua Color 36174 Gunship Grey
Highlight: Revell Aqua Color 36174 Gunship Grey from a steeper angle only
Pin Wash: Nuln Oil
Drybrush: P3 Coal Black
Pick out the eyes in white

A lazy and unsatisfying paint job, but it matches the art.  I could add colour, but I have no idea what this is.  I’m assuming its made of smoke, or the black ambrosia all primordials seem to contain, so it is black for a reason?

Demidjinn

Skin

Base: Airbrush Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black side on and above only.
Highlight: Airbush Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black mixed with Revell Aqua Color 36174 Gunship Grey
Drybrush: Revell Aqua Color 36174 Gunship Grey

Gold

Base: Darkstar Regency Gold
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: Darkstar Regency Gold
Drybrush: Darkstar Regency Gold Mixed with Darkstar Pale Gold
Drybrush: Darkstar Pale Gold
Drybrush and Edge Highlight: Darkstar Pale Gold mixed with Vallejo Metal Colour 77.707 Chrome

Leather

Base: P3 Bootstrap Leather:
Drybrush: A.Mig-0620 Dark Sand
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: A.Mig-0620 Dark Sand as needed

Horn & Spike

Base: P3 jack Bone
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base, avoiding the base
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Highlight, only more towards the point
Drybrush: White on just the tip
Wash lightly: Jan’s Magimix, around just the base of the horn (6-8 Parts GW Nuln Oil, 6-8 Parts GW Agrax Earthshade, 5-6 Parts Lahmium Medium, 2 parts Athonian Camoshade. Thanks, Januinevision)

The columns and brickwork caught inside him were painted the same as the the ground at the same time I was painting the bases.  This will match all my previously painted columns.

I’m told that is everything I need to start Cycle 4 and play for a while.  Last night I cleaned up and primed everything else for the cycle, which is the Titans made from these primordials, the Immortal Truthbearer, and the flying boat platform thing.  I’ll be back here when I have something finished.  I plan to start playing Cycle over the Easter Bank Holiday weekend.  I hope I can remember anything about what had happened and how to play.

The second wave of the Kickstarter, which ITU are calling Wave 1, has finally arrived, only 4 months after shipping began.  Thanks Brexit and Packman Fulfilment!

This model was released on Black Friday 2025 and may or may not be staying around.  He was sold only as the ??? Titan.  What they did not tell us up front is that the box contains no instructions for integrating him in to the game.  Apparently he’s already in there, hidden somewhere, and we need to figure it out as we play.  Given he seems to be added and perhaps designed after the fact I have concerns that it might not be obvious when he’s unlocked.  If I play the game, unlock him and don’t notice because they chose to keep it vague I’m going to be very disappointed.

They released 5 new Titans on their web store.  Rules-wise they appear a little disappointing.  Little more than alt sculpts for the base level titans, but holding different weapons.  Last time, it was a whole new special titan with it’s own rules.  This time we just got a few new gear cards.  Maybe I’ll be more impressed once I get playing again.  If they do this again I likely won’t buy them.

I rushed then through so they’re ready for the table as soon as Wave 2 arrives.  it docks near the local distribution hub this Saturday, in theory.

With Wave 1 finished it was time to put the box away until Wave 2 arrives, but I can’t do that until I paint the last mini.  That meant it was time to work on Helios, god of the sun, and the most knock-overable first player token ever made.  The sun part was mostly airbrush work, finished off with some brushwork.

WARNING!  The pics below contain heavy spoilers of the maps.  Do not look closely at them.  They are for my benefit later

I finally finished all the available content last week!  It only took me about a year.  30 fights in C3, 32 fights in C2, and at least 25 fights in C1.  Wave 2 (C4+5) are hopefully shipping Q2, as of last weeks update, so I hope to get started on this soon.  I may detour to KDM briefly while waiting for delivery and painting up what I need to get started on cycle 4.

Cycle 2 was all about being outclassed and struggling to overcome overwhelming odds.  Cycle 3 drops that (To some extent. It’s still hard.  More on that later), and instead focuses on time travel.  The land is stuck in a series of time loops, and now so are you.  One of the monsters will switch you to a timeline you’re already dead in, if you don’t move fast enough.  This mechanic is interesting, and a fun challenge once you get used to it, but I found, especially early on, that it was far too easy to pull the wrong card at the wrong time and just erase all your titans.  That was a horrible experience and lead to me embracing my own Heroic Mode rules, which I’ll come to soon.

This game has always taken up a lot of space.  I have it set up with the battle board taking up a whole 6×4 table, and the world map and tech cards filling up a desk.  C3 laughed at that.  You think it’s got a world map?  A single world map?  Pah!  I ended up with 4, over 3 different time periods.  I pulled out a 2×4 board and rested it on a spare bed, and even then I had trouble fitting my extra maps on in.  I then had guests stay over in that spare room a few times.  They kept having to step over my map board, and avoid my map desk.  It must have been odd for them.

The game is hard and has issues, but I enjoyed it once I tweaked the rules a little.  Cycle 3 really blew my socks off though.  The finale for C3, the cliffhanger for Wave 1 was truly epic.  It was a moment that stands out for me.  One of my high points in gaming from the past few years.  I cannot discuss it because Spoilers, but it was really well done, and really special.  It makes me really excited to see where the story is going, and how they are going to change the game going forward.  I really wish I could talk about it.  I was buzzing for a couple of days.  11/10 would recommend.  If you don’t mind playing a long hard game to get there.

Hero Mode

I’ve worked my way through two cycles, occasionally bending the rules because of negative play experiences and the game being pitched far harsher than I want, i.e. They don’t mind if you wipe and start again from the very beginning.  Not terrible if you can play the whole thing in a month or two.  Soul destroying if you lose nine months of progress and you’ve still got 9 more months to go even if you’d survived.  I don’t mind a hard game, but I want a game I can complete before the heat death of the universe.  I’ve other things I want to get done.

Cycle 3 added in some new mechanics for its fights that meant I could die instantly regardless of my health, and I decided this was just too much.  Time to dial it back a notch and make it so I stood a chance and enjoyed myself.  I tweaked rules as I played the cycle and I’m calling it my hero mode.  I’m formalising it here for the benefit of others.  Losing a Titan isn’t too bad.  Losing 1-2 every fight (minimum 1 fight every 5ish days, often 2-3), and then taking 9 days to grow back a replacement, and you can only grow one from each generation at a time quickly leads to you running on Dreamwalkers only, and they seem to be terrible once the cycle gets going.  At least that’s the impression C2 gave me.  This will lead to an attrition loss pretty quickly.

Maybe none of this would be needed if I was smarter.  Maybe none of this would be needed if I wasn’t playing solo and I could keep track of everything better, and had a second opinion on rules I might be playing wrong.

1: Lesser Toying (Stolen from the Hermesian Persuer.  Some people play full Toying at all times).  All Primordials roll 1 less dice to hit, and you ignore the first increase in Danger from them evolving.  Minimum roll of 1 dice.

2: If you reveal an instant death card before you’ve even had a chance to make a choice, put it back in the deck and draw again.

3: You can spend Fate to shuffle and redraw Obols.  You can spend Fate to reroll an Awakening test.

4: All instant death cards and effects force an Obol draw instead.  If this is a phased effect that has a Obol draw option a stage below (ie for one successful hit, draw an obol, for two you die instantly), add an extra “You Died Horribly card” and draw.

5: Argo Abilities and powers like that, that grant a very limited number of uses in a fight can be applied after you roll the dice.  Argo Trireme Abilities do not count against your AA limit, but you can only ever bring one.

6: Rerolls: Rerolls from Spiral or Black tokens are a separate thing from generic rerolls, so those dice can be rerolled for each of those effects.  Black tokens can also be spent to apply their Break token effect without rerolling that dice.

7: Sisyphean Tokens can be spent to redo any instance of RNG, even after you’ve seen how it all plays out.  If this is a card draw, shuffle the old card back in the deck before drawing again.  Time is limited.  Why redo the whole fight, when you just want a redo of the last disaster?

8: Argo Fate.  If you’re going to reduce yours and your characters would know this (i.e. they can see a fight about to happen), feel free to ignore the voyage sequence briefly and spend any fate you want to make use of this change.  Fate is so limited.  Don’t waste it.

9: Spending Fate to gain nodes or train titans.  Mark it on the timeline, but don’t pick who or what is getting the benefit until the time comes.  It’s no fun when they’re dead or retired by the time it comes up.

10: Argo Bred.  This isn’t a balance rule.  This is just about me hating this term.  In the rules “Argo Bred” refers to Non-Dreamwalkers, whether they were bred on the Argo or not.  Titans who were bred on the Argo do not count as Argo Bred.  This drives me crazy.  I play that any titan bred on the Argo is Argo bred, along with the Non-Dreamwalkers.

11: When you spend fate to reroll any dice you can chose to just add 1 to it instead.  This will never make it count as a critical.

12: Loot gained by critical hits.  I did not play with this rule, but I’m very tempted for C4.  The first time you encounter a monster go through its BP deck.  Make a list of every card with loot that can be gained by critting it.  Every time you wound that card put a tally by its name.  Every time you roll to hit that card, add the number of tallies to your roll.  If it is 10+, it counts as a crit, but only for the purposes of earning that item.  You gain no other crit effects, unless you rolled a natural crit normally.

13: Memnos Nodes.  When earning nodes, I don’t distinguish.  Anything that can gain you a Memnos Node could also gain you a Fated Memnos node

14: If you would gain a titan or a resources from an icon on the world map, but you are already at max, leave a token there.  if you end up back there later (You won’t) you can collect it then.  I recommend printing your own tokens for everything.

15: Once you max out your Argo knowledge through Inwards Odyssey, keep track of extra gains.  Every extra point you scored can b cashed in during the following Onwards Odyssey to extend the timeline by one, or can be spent instead of an Argo Fate.  You can still use all your tech and abilities during the onwards Odyssey to grow new titans, train them up, and improve your Argonauts etc.

Hypertime Oracle:

1: The timefront does not advance faster as he evolves.
2: If you retreat the timeline beyond the board edge, keep track of these spaces and knock them off of it’s next advance

Harpy:

1: The Bleed effect that happens at the start of the each fight shouldn’t trigger any negative rules you might have about gaining more bleed tokens.  Dying, or being pushed to the brink of death before the fight starts is no fun.

If I remember more, I’ll come back and update

Once again, SPOILER ALERT: Do not look closely at these following pics.  They are for my benefit so I can restore my map once Onwards Odyssey arrives.