May 22, 2019 by crew
The people have spoken and we have heard you! Check out how the towns of Normandy will be appropriately down and dirty in part six of our Flames of War boot camp prep series.
![Flames of War: Building Normandy VLOG [Part Six]](https://images.beastsofwar.com/2019/05/normandy-6-Vlog.jpg)
With our crack team hard at work, rooftops will be destroyed, and detritus will be strewn.
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Dig the latrines!
on it!
I dunno if it helps, but Neil Schuck (the Welsh one) from Meeples and miniatures podcasts was talking about his basing method other latest one and mentioned tea leaves- ripping open and drying used bags. They are obviously brown already, but as you use glue etc the tannin remaining stains material around them and also adds colour and another texture? Not tried but would that help with the rubble mix?
Depending on tea you have, the leaves inside the bag may sometimes be quite huge and spread during brewing process. So unless you’re certain that is not the case with the blend you’re using you may run into problem of giving reasons for humongous leaves in your rubble.
I use used up tea and coffee mixed with dried leaves and number of other things for wood sheathing on the bases, in that regard it works very good.And yes, they will dye evrything around them (both coffe and tea).
If you want to be super realistic and give @laughingboy another laborious task, get him to take a hard pencil and rub the side of it over the top of all the railway tracks. The top of track tends to be cleaner than the rest of the track due to the trains running over it. The graphite from the pencil lead will give it a cleaner look and a little shine! Apologises to Martin if they do make him do it 🙂
I will mention this tomorrow, I am up for it!
it’s much easier and a better effect with a soft pencil. Did you suggest a hard pencil to cause additional suffering?
Home made charcoal would be best. There looks like enough room outback of BoW to make it
I am a horrible person 🙂
Luke’s APS on YouTube has a video for making homemade “Agrax Earthshade” and “Nuln Oil” in bulk quantities. It may be a good jumping off point for what you want to do.
This is a ‘small’ scale version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vFcRT2wOh8
This is the bulk scale video I was thinking of.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlYWHanxAug
This is like ‘Cooking with Jamie’
Except it’s “building with Warren : battlefields in under 15 minutes … “
What, you mean it becomes really successful then goes into administration? 🙂
that’s his restaurant … not his cooking show 😉
An extrapolation, don’t over-analyse it 😉
Nice to come each night to these, cup of tea and settled!
Town looking good.
About use of dye in the airbrush instead of rattle cans – I use mix of dye based inks with matt varnish through the airbrush for similar effects. It works well (you may see some effects on my last diorama project). The main difference with the can in my opinion is, that airbrush (even with .8 needle/nozzle set) covers much more concentrated area and when you try to use it from further away to counter that the varnish may dry on the way and not stick properly to the building. I don’t think, however’ that would be any problem in 15 mm scale, where you may want to be more precise with application anyway.
Still gutted I missed out on this weekend (gggrrrr work)
Looking great!
On my Normandy tables I add in little sheets of green and brown felt to simulate farmfields and small gardens. That might add some more colour to the board 🙂
Adding bits of felt. That proper wargaming right there
@warzan I already told you that Mel did that! XD Videos 9 and 10 of his Burma build playlist. Go back to your green dye mat video 😉
It’s really looking good.
@warzan Just for old times sake. You know it would all look a lot better in 6mm ?
1/200th would be best , and it so happens that I have both sides,including fulls squadron of British 11th Armoured Division (plus 2 rec troops of Cromwells) in that scale, and have access. to U.S infantry ( on the basis that I painted all the clubs 1/200th).
@bobcockayne Do you have any photos of them
Nope but keep meaning to do some, plus all the Desert war stuff I painted more years ago than I’d like to remember.I have found a couple of not great photos of the latter of a game done at above club years ago, will stick in historical under ‘Bobs 1/200th’
@warzan,@torros one of he members of Chase Wargames Club (based in Hammerwich Staffs) built a whole pile of Normandy Terrain in 1/300TH based on double thickness polystyrene tiles, it had villages town squares etc as being built by the lads but had to be carefully stored as it was no were as durable.It was suggested he got the stickback vinyl floor tiles to put underneath to strengthen it.
@warzan Been doing a bit of brief Oriskany syled background reading for bootcamp.
Looking at your idea of breakout .
Units for Americans
Paratroopers 101st or 82nd I’m going 101st
Armour possibly U.S. 4th Armoured Division
German gets a little more problamtic
Most of panzer dvision were drawn to face British at Caen.
It was 2nd SS Panzer and 17th SS Panzer Grenediers initially , the former we may want to steer away from what I saw in quick glance of certain atrocities.
Panzer Lehr best bet, although initially were involved in fighting the British were moved to face Americans around the time of the breakout, had mainly Panzer IV’s which fits kit we get for bootcamp, Panthers (and poss Jagdpanthers) Jagdpanzer and your favourite Stugs
In fact your fictional German unit is actually less controversial than some of the historic units for Germans above.
Following up the read over lunch break , yup thing we should steer clear of both SS units shall we say both have a fairly chequered career particularly 2nd SS Panzer!!!
the buildings do need weathering. from plastic toy buildings, to realistic looking buildings. great job people.
Love all the ways to get realistic with all the terrain.