40k Space Wolves & Daemons Boot Sale Bargain – Help Lawnor identify and fix please (Spring Cleaning)
Recommendations: 374
About the Project
I was helping my karate club run a stand at a school fete that had a boot sale of 6 cars. While handing out leaflets at the boot sale I saw a box and some drawers with some GW in. I asked how much and they said £10. I assumed per tank, but then thay said, "for the lot, not just the box. You can tell we don't want to take it home again". I don't play 40K and don't know too much about it, but how could I say no? I don't know what all of this is, and I don't know what parts are mising. Please help me return this to fighting shape.
Related Game: Warhammer 40,000
Related Company: Games Workshop
Related Genre: Science Fiction
Related Contest: Spring Clean Hobby Challenge (Old)
This Project is Completed
Dreadnaught Prep
The box contained 2 dreadnaughts, but 6 limbs so I’ve decided to magnetise everything to allow options. I’ve had a look around online for advice on this and I saw someone use magnets on the body but metal plates on the limbs in order to save on magnets and to not worry about aligning everything perfectly. We had one last tub of Twiglets left after Christmas when I read that so I tested to see if the bottom was magnet friendly and it was so I ate the Twiglets and saved the metal.
I carefully removed the limbs from the bodies. By carefully I mean I pulled, prised and levered, and ended up getting a hacksaw for the last limb. I used some wire cutters to clip through the rim of the metal, but otherwise it was thin enough to cut through with a decent pair of scissors. Small squares were cut out and glued on the the limbs. Three holes were drilled in each shoulder in no particular arrangement and magnets were glued in to them. I tried to keep the polarity the same across all magnets in all shoulders in case of any future decisions.
Once the glue had dried I tested them out. They seem to hold very well and allow for rotation.
Next up is Priming. Anyone got any ideas how to hold the extra pair of limbs while I work on them? Sadly I don’t have any large magnets to hand.
——————————————————————————————-
Priming is done. I’ve tried a mixed aproach. I started with a solid coat of black, and then went for a heavier than usual zenithal white. i then downed the pressure and tried to reclaim the shadow a little with some thinned black. I had less success this time around than with the tanks, but its all learning. We will see how it pans out.
I was hoping to have these guys finished by today, but I ended up doing a lot of babysitting over the weekend. With any luck they will be painted across the week and I can base and varnish this weekend. Tonight I highlight the gold and then perhaps work on the purity seals? I’ve noticed that there is a nub on the right breast of the venerable dreadnought where research says a purity seal was supposed to go. I don’t have that part. I’ve found a decorative wolf skull that should cover it nicely and help tie the Dreadnought better in to the army. I’m also considering the missing knee pad on the other one to be battle damage. Had I noticed before painting I might have had a go at crafting a replacement, but it’s too late now.
This just in: This has won me a Golden Button!
Community Spotlight: Dreadnought Magnetics, Old Trolls & Magical Goatmen
I have now finished both Dreadnoughts. The only new colour I added was for the warheads. I wanted a different shade of red for them so I went with a VGC 72.065 Terracota base for a darker flatter red. I highlighted the upper portions with some thinned P3 Skorne Red, and further highlighted the tip with a thinned mix of GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.
Space Wolves Finished
So that’s all the Space Wolf models from the box done. That leaves 3 big Daemons and a few odds and ends that might get sold or put on one side until they become relevant. Here is a picture of the army all painted up and advnacing on the enemy. The light in my games room isn’t brilliant so sadly the picture isn’t as good as I would have liked.
If you wish to see them in use I have a Battle Report/review type project log started up over here.
So far I have spent £10 on the box and about £15 on parts. I have sold Pedro Kantor and the Ltd Edition Captain for a £15 profit and I have something on Ebay right now that has a bidder and should make me at least £5 after Ebay and Paypal take their cut so I’m only down £5 overall!
Update: Just got about £5.50 profit from that sale, so I’ve only spent a net total of £4.50 on all these models and I’ve still got a Deathwing Terminator Sargent for sale.
Repairs to Damaged Daemons
The wing of the Bloodthirster was damaged and one of the horns/antenna from the Soul Grinder were broken when I got them. I was considering just going with it and calling it battle damage, but I thought I’d try my hand at doing repairs. I found myself with some time to kill, but not enough to paint so I boiled the kettle and reached for the Oyumaro instant mould again. I melted down my previous castings, and wrapped the mould around the other horn, and the 2 neighbouring talons and left them to cool down to room temperature before removing them. They were given longer still before I cut a slit up the side of each where I hoped no one would see (without needing stitches this time!). I then stuffed them with green stuff as best as I could. They were then left for a week to set before popping them out of the moulds.
I then cleaned them up as best as I could and dry fit them to the models along the way to work out which talon to keep, and ensure the fit was the best I could get. Pin holes were drilled on both sides to strengthen the connection and reinforce the green stuff, and the parts were glued. A little Vallejo Plastic Putty was used to smooth over the connection for the talon. I’m hoping once primer is applied that these parts will blend in if you don’t look to closely. I might yet revisitn them with a hobby knife before then, but perhaps that’s just inviting mistakes? They are far from perfect, but I’m thinking they already look better than just the damage.
As for basing, I have the Behemoth of Decay from Titan Forge. I’m hoping to make him visually compatible with my Chaos Daemons. Take a look at his base. I’m thinking I can make similar spikes from old bits of sprue, even if I have to keep them smaller. I can then paint them up as obsidian. A dark grey, with a hint of blue/green to them, and edge them a brighter version of that blue/green. Something like the scheme in the second picture. Perhaps coat them with gloss varnish afterwards? I have the Realm of Chaos: Wrath and Rapture box unopened. What do people think of that for basing across both factions?
I prized the models from their bases using a hobby knife, a box cutter, and the small screwdriver I use to get lids off tiny pots of paint and only managed to stab myself the once, with the screwdriver thankfully. Turns out the feet on the Daemon Prince are tiny separate parts and one came off and broke so needed gluing back together. The models have had pins put in their feet so I can reconnect them to their bases, once I have painted and decorated them. I have marked out where the feet will go so I do not stick anything there that might get in the way.
The priming is now done, and I think it looks OK. It doesn’t quite have the definition of the original parts, but unless I’m looking directly at it, I don’t see whats real and whats home made. This may change when I come to actually paint them up.
I’m being a little cheeky and tagging this for the Spring Cleaning challenge. I started the project before that was announced, and I’ll be doing it long after it finishes so I suspect I don’t qualify, but I am continuing during the challenge so no harm in clicking a few buttons in the hopes of winning £50. I’m taking someone elses long abandoned project, fixing it up, painting it, and even getting some games in over here.
Making Daemon Bases
I’m trying something new with the bases for my Daemons. This is something I learned from AssetDrop for making crystal growths but I’ve never tried. I’ll be painting these up to look like obsidian, as detailed below.
The first step was to save some sprue and cut out some straight sections, removing any writing or jutty outy bits. Then you take your hobby knife and shave off the corners so you have an irregular 8 sided shape. Then you bring one end to an irregular angular tip. I then cut a flat bottom on to it at the angle I want.
As you will see below, this gets very messy very fast. Plan for this, and for gods sake, don’t blow on anything like I did!
My first crystal and the base. You can see I've marked out where the feet will go so I do not put anything in the way.
Then I drill a pin hole in the bottom of each. I drilled a guide hole perpendicular to the surface, but once I'm about 1mm in I angle the drill to go alone the middle of the crystal as best as I can.
Drill holes in the base using the same method as before. Do this one at a time, dry-fitting crystals until you are happy with the arrangement
Some kitty litter was superglued down, and then some watery PVA was spread over the base and over the bottoms of the crystals. Fine garden dirt was then crumbled over everything. Once the glue is dry (8-24 hours) I'll go over it with even more watery PVARed Daemon Flesh and Wings
The Daemon was previously given a zenithal preshade and left overnight to dry. I then dropped my airbrush prssure down to around 15 and thinned my paints down much futher and put a coat of VGS 72.111 Gory Red over the model. This came out too pink for my tasts so I swapped it out for VGC 72.012 Scarlett Red. The underside got minimal attention but the side and top got progressively more, still allowing the preshade to influence the colours
Once the wash had fully dried, I thinned down with water and GW Lahmium Medium some of the Scarlett Red and reclaimed everything but the recesses and undersides. Some GW Evil Sunz Scarlet was thinned and used to add highlights to the reclaimed areas. A few coats of each were used.Then came the Foundry Nipple Pink system (Light, base and shade). I mixed 3 parts shade with 1 part Evil Sunz Scarlet, and thinned it down to apply the next highlight, covering most of the previus highlight. Then I did the same, but with pure Nipple Pink Shade. Then I highlighted edges and glints with thinned Nipple Pink Base, and finally just the glints and extreme highlights with Nipple Pink Highlight.
I am having a problem painting this model. Anywhere I want to put my hands theres a wing or a weapon in the pay. It means I often end up holding the brush a couple of inches higher up than is comfortable and I don’t have anywhere to balance my hands. As a result I am making more of a mess of this model than I might otherwise.
Once the rest of the model is done I am hoping the flesh will look better. if not, I might revisit it with an all over glaze or a thinned ink or something to unify the layers better. We will see when I get there.
The wings got 2 coats of VMC 70.862 Black Grey. I got a couple of dots of this on the red skin, which I will tidy up once I'm done risking getting more mistakes to fix.Khorne Black Armour, Gold Trim, Teeth, Horns, Hair and Claws
The armour was base coated with Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black, and then highlighted with a mix of Tar Black and 36174 Gunship Grey, applied as normal in some areas, but as stippling over open surfaces that would catch the light. The highlights were further enhanced with a 1:2 mix before I remembered to take pictures, which don't really show what I've been doing unfortunately.
Next highlight was pure Gunship Grey, and then that was mixed with 36176 Light Grey, and finally pure Light Grey
As the highlights looked a little too pronounced I glaized over them one or twice with the base colour to unify everything better
All the soon to be iron and bronze areas have been undercoated black. The inlay on the skirt was painted P3 Pig Iron, washed GW Nuln Oil, and then drybrushed P3 Cold Steel
The gold was given 2-3 coats of Darkstar Blackened Bronze, and then highlighted with Darkstar Bronze
Finally, the highlights were applied with more Darkstar Bronze. For anyone thats curious, the rubber is there to rock him back on his pins otherwise you mostly see the top of his head
The Teeth and Horns were base coated with P3 Menoth White Base. The bottom 2/3rds were washed with P3 Ember Orange, and then the bottom 1/3rd was washed with P3 Bloodstone. The tops were highlighted with P3 menoth White Higlight and lines of this were drawn along the curve of the horns to varying lengths. The Tongue was picked out in P3Murderous Magenta
The hair, claws and hooves etc were base coated with a mix of VMC 70.995 German Grey and P3 Cryx Bane Base
That was washed with Nuln Oil, then highlighted with a mix of German Grey and GW Karak Stone. Final highlights were applied to everything except the hair with a mix of Karak Stone and a tiny amount of the previous mixThis final colour is based loosely on Duncans Bloodthirster video but I switched the paints as best as I could for ones I owned. Once again I found the wings were in the way of everything. I rarely had anywhere to place my hands while painting the highlights so all brush control went out of the window, and I don’t have much to begin with. I have shaky hands at the best of times.
Leather, Steel, Eyes, and Skulls
The whip and the belt were undercoated with Scalecolour Black Leather SC-32, and then given an even base coat of 50/50 Black Leather and ScaleColour Red Leather SC-30
Everything but the recesses was painted with a 1:2 Black leather:Red Leather mix, and then the highlighting was started with pure Red Leather
2:1 Red Leather and ScaleColour Orange Leather SC-28 were used to further highlight, covering less and less surface each time
Next layer was 2:1 Orange Leather: Red leather. Then edge highlights were applied with 2:1 Orange Leather:VMC 70.918 Ivory, with final glints of 1: Orange leather:Ivory
The steel was base coated with P3 Pig Iron. The eyes were based with P3 Ember Orange, and then highlighted with P3 Heartfire. All the steel was then washed with GW Nuln Oil.Daemon Base Painting
The base was primed black and then painted with P3 Great Coat Grey. This will be based on the book, "Warhammer: Age of Sigmar: Painting Guide" p120.
Then I mixed up some GW Nuln Oil with water and applied this in patches over the base, focusing on areas that would have more shadow. Once dry, more was then applied evenly all over the base, with the jppe that the hard edges around the first wash would be less clearly defined but some areas would still be darker than others.
It was given a drybrush of GW Karak Stone and then GW Screaming Skull. The edges were then reclaimed with black.
The shards were base coated black, and then the upper half of each surface was painted with a thinned mix of P3 Coal Black and P3 Thamar Black







































